Kensei Restaurant, Tenerife

Kensei: a Japanese restaurant in Tenerife that defies expectations

In all honestly Kensei restaurant has to be one of the most surprising restaurants I’ve experienced. One, it’s in a tourist area on the Costa Adeje so you don’t always expect the very best of the best, and two, there was virtually no advertising for this place when I chanced upon it.

Kensei – a unique Japanese restaurant in Tenerife – is the brainchild and partnership between chef Victor Planas and Venture Restaurants Group.

Nestled in the crook of the Hotel Bahia del Duque, this newcomer to the Canarian dining scene is greatly welcomed. Sushi, nigiri and maki are the backbone of Japanese cuisine, and there is no compromise on the precision of preparation of the quality of ingredients. The principle of action and reaction is easily understood in the panoply of Japanese cuisine.

And Víctor Planas, who with 22 years of hustle and bustle in Japanese kitchens, has adopted these fine principles and clearly practices a structured ethos and approach to Japanese haute cuisine for the 21st century.

There are several seating options which you’ll need to request when making a booking, and there’s no guarantee that they’ll have the space available:

The balcony for two – an Instagrammers idea of perfection – offers views of the ocean and some spectacular sunsets. But be warned, on a hot evening it can be stifling and there’s no escape to the shade!
The kitchen, in sight of diners, is pretty spectacular and offers a small sushi bar ( six people max) for those who want to witness in more detail the different processes of preparing the dishes.
Two terraces, one which offers a peace and serenity not often found in restaurants, overlooking a green lush gardens and the odd black goose pottering about.
There’s also a private dining area for those special celebrations, available on request.

Japanese haute cuisine that provides an explosion for the senses

Kensei’s menu is extensive. And whilst his preparation practices are faithful to traditional Japanese cuisine, his ingredients are adapted to the local environment, using top-quality Canarian fish, including bluefin tuna.

As with most restaurants these days, they serve to cater to an international audience. And Kensei has carefully balanced this with skilfully and beautifully prepared dishes, from sushi and uramaki to more unusual selections such as tsukemono, a plate of pickled vegetables. What is unique to this restaurant and the island, is the robatayaki (robata for short) – delicately prepared seafood cooked over open charcoals. And Victor has cleverly manipulated this cooking method into fine dining – scallops served with enoki mushrooms, brought to the table over white hot tiny coals. Delicious. And very clever.

I would highly recommend the tasing menu. I’m not a Japanese food afficionado so this seemed like a good option to get the full experience. The 6-course tasting menu is not cheap at 75EUR but it’s worth it (you can even opt for the ‘Seasonal Chef’s Tasting Menu’ at 150EUR if you’re really looking to splash out). If you want simple sushi then this menu isn’t for you. The tasting menu opens your eyes to a world beyond rice wrapped in seaweed to flavour combinations that you’re not going to find easily anywhere else. This menu is where Victor’s expertise shines through.

Mrs HB and I are sitting on the garden terrace at dusk, sipping a somewhat unusual cocktail consisting of Japanese gin, umeshu, homemade cherry sencha green tea, shiso bitters. I think this is where you need to expect the unexpected in Kensei’s dining experience. These cocktails are not for everyone and I’m not sure Mrs HB will be partaking of another one anytime soon – it was just a little bit strange, even for her experienced palate.

Bring on the wine! Did I mention that Kensei’s wine cellar houses 120 references of wines, champagnes, cavas and sakes? If you’re not sure what to drink then call on the services of the very experienced sommelier, Laura. She knows what is going to balance well with the delicate flavours you would expect from Japanese food. And she didn’t let us down.

And so, as we tucked into a glass of chilled, refreshing white wine, our first dish arrived at the table – a dish of clams simmered in sake, ginger and kombu seaweed. Tiny mouthfuls of sweet seafood with a depth of flavour, you could definitely taste the sake and it wasn’t overpowering. More please.

For our next course we opted for some tuna sashimi. Three cuts of the finest bluefin tuna from different parts of the fish, served over ice. I hadn’t expected the taste and texture to vary so much from each other considering they were from the same fish! But I guess, akin to beef, it’s going to vary from the fillet to the rump. Accompanied with pickled ginger, homemade wasabi (with a freshness and heat that you don’t get from the jar version) and finely sliced daikon, the tuna was, put simply, a delight.

I’ve already talked about the scallops and mushroom robata. But with the sun fully set, and a romantic low lighting casting a glow over the table, the flame underneath the scallop shell only added to the spectacle and ambience of the evening. Serving a dish in this way creates conversation. So whilst we watched the scallops and mushrooms cooking gently over the flame, we found ourselves talking excitedly about our experience so far and what might be next on the agenda.

And what came next was totally unexpected. 48-hour slow cooked wagyu beef, served with mash, crispy daikon and gravy. Anyone might think you’re back in the UK, about to tuck into a typically British meal. But no. The beef was unctuous and fell apart to the touch of my fork. The mash was not potato but parsnip – silky smooth and light. And the gravy? Well, let’s just call it a little Japanese wonder of a jus. It lifted the dish and, whilst filling our bellies full of warming food, didn’t overwhelm us. To be fair though, we did share this dish – it would have been too much for one person.

Finally, after just the right amount of time between courses, we were served with the final showstopper. If you’ve ever had Okinawa doughnuts before you might be thinking I’ve gone a little mad because they’re just doughnuts. But not these ones. Arriving in a little nest, these traditional deep-fried balls of goodness were accompanied by their own pot of sweet bubbling 70% Valrhona chocolate. Delicious.

A complete customer experience in Tenerife

Victor doesn’t just serve good food on a plate he and his team create a complete dining experience. The chefs are well trained and clearly know what they’re doing if you watch them at their stations, silently and swiftly executing dishes full of flavour and precision. The waiters are impeccable – well-mannered and attentive without being in your face every two minutes (a pet hate of mine).

What resonates with me is Victor’s passion, determination and commitment to a spectacular dining experience where nothing is compromised – neither the food nor the ambience. Whether you want opt for sushi and nigiri or the tasting menu, you will undoubtedly indulge your tastebuds at Kensei and leave with something new and exciting to talk about over dinner tables with friends worldwide.

Keep an eye on Kensei; my belief is it’s on the road to Michelin-stardom in the short term. Thank you Victor for making my Japanese experience a very real one (without the challenge of translating the menu from actual Japanese!). It was fabulous meeting you and I will be back.