Mr Pook's Kitchen, Dumfries & Galloway

Truly ‘locally sourced’ at Mr Pook’s Kitchen

I sometimes think that I’m a little bit lucky to have stumbled on Mr Pook’s Kitchen in Castle Douglas. Now if you don’t know where Castle Douglas is situated in the UK, then I don’t blame you. Honestly, it’s almost in the middle of nowhere!

But Castle Douglas is, in fact, the heart of Dumfries & Galloway, and it’s a bustling little tourist town destination during the Easter and summer holidays. And that’s partly because the whole coastline is awash with campsites, B&Bs and the odd boutique hotel dotted around. Packed full of gift shops, cafes (and butchers it would seem!), this really is a hub for campers and caravanners and is fiercely well-regarded by its local residents, not least for the award-winning fish and chip shop, Moore’s.

So image the town’s surprise when the local bank closed down and someone called Ed Pook decided he was going to buy the building and convert it into a fine dining restaurant. Hurray I say, because Castle Douglas (and the surrounding areas) is sorely lacking for anywhere to get a consistently good meal.

I’m lucky enough to have met Ed as he was transforming from bank to dining establishment and I remember just one of his many challenges… like so many converted banks, he had to move the unmovable safe!

I’m also lucky enough to have lived in the local area for a while and got to know Ed (a local himself, living on the farm just down the road from me) whilst he was busily putting his culinary concepts into practice.

Training as a chef in London has allowed Ed to bring a wealth of expertise and experience to South West Scotland. And his strong adherence to his identity for the restaurant really shines through in his food. His intention was always to translate the beauty and diversity of the local region into the plate.

Which is why he works with local suppliers, from the farmers and producers to foragers and friends to enhance the food and its flavours. The menu changes regularly with the seasons and availability of produce and I like that. It provides interest for the ‘locals’ to keep them coming back, as well as something a bit different for visitors to the region.

When Ed first opened the restaurant he partnered with wine expert Chris Bain, who housed himself in a separate room of the restaurant, where you could not only taste the wines used on the menu, but buy a bottle or six to take home too! Alas, Chris no longer occupies the same space, having branched out to open his own wine shop and delicatessen, Harris & Co, across the road, which is absolutely worth a visit too.

Serious, hearty food awaits you at Mr Pook’s Kitchen

Now look, Giles Coren beat me to writing a review of Mr Pook’s Kitchen. But what Giles doesn’t have is the personal insights or conversations with Ed that I had on many an occasion, even if it was just popping in to say hello and nosy at what the chefs were prepping in the open kitchen area. Or propping up the bar, inlaid with coins (which is quite cool) that has several local gins and whiskies for you to try, as well as beers and wines, whatever takes your fancy.

And when I did get round to eating here, it was well worth it.

The high-ceilinged room is light and airy during the day and softens to a warm glow in the evening. The tables are simply set, with hand-cut local flowers by Ed’s lovely (hard-working) mother. But the tables feel a little cheap compared to the no-expense spared kitchen and bar. It’s minor thing but it immediately makes you wonder whether you’ve come for fine dining or a bowl of soup, bread and a natter (which you can do at lunchtimes).

I wouldn’t class Mr Pook’s Kitchen as fine dining, but the food he prepares is well-presented and delicious. I came here one evening with my parents for a birthday celebration not long after Mr Pook’s Kitchen opened its doors (they live locally and were probably as curious as I was about this new phenomenon in a backwater town in Scotland!).

I’m not sure if Ed was nervous of putting his real style out there, or whether he was uncertain about what would draw in local customers, but much of the menu seemed to be something I could cook just as well at home. To be fair, I’ve been cooking for friends, family and clients since I was knee-high to a grasshopper so maybe I had higher expectations. But I also have to remind myself that I’m not in London where there’s a huge diversity of cultures and openness to world cuisine, so Ed has done what he feels will fit with his local culture.

I couldn’t really tell you what we ate that night – probably fish because you can get some spectacular fresh seafood in this region. And probably beef, because the native Belted Galloway is world-renowned for its quality and flavour. I do remember we had some very nice wine that matched the tasty food well, and we left having had a good evening for a very reasonable price for four people.

However I have been back since then, for Mr HB’s birthday celebration as it happens, and this was far more memorable. Ed has found his stride and cooks with passion and flair that is evident in the dishes he prepares. The beautifully seared beef fillet was pink and buttery; served with silky-smooth potatoes, local wilted spinach and game chips and a glossy jus. Mr HB’s locally-sourced pheasant was a delight and not what you’d expect for a game dish. ‘Southern-fried’ style with nigella seeds and a sweet-chilli glaze, crispy onions and crunchy pomegranate seeds, every bite was supremely tasty, if somewhat surprising at first!

Swiftly followed up by chocolate parfait with a cherry-filled centre, chocolate brownie, vanilla ice cream and white chocolate ‘crumble’, this was art on a plate that tasted as good as it looked. All washed down with a rather good bottle of Malbec.

I think one of the resounding factors about Mr Pook’s is the philosophy of his food, not just the flavours. That, and the friendly welcome you’ll receive every time you visit, whether that’s for lunch or dinner. His family are part of the local community and dining at Mr Pook’s Kitchen brings you a little closer to that community. They’re a friendly bunch, the folk from Castle Douglas, so if you’re looking for some serious cooking from a fiercely passionate chef and foodie, go and have a meal at Mr Pook’s Kitchen.