The Kings Arms, Fleggburgh, Norfolk

The Kings Arms, Fleggburgh: blink, but don’t miss it

Norfolk is a funny county. It’s flat (well, flatter than most counties in the UK) and it take ages to get from A to B. And there’s endless countryside to explore – from the long coastal beaches for dreamy dog walks and stone skimming, and the marshlands where you can birdwatch to your heart’s content, to hidden villages and hamlets that make you feel like you’re in the middle of nowhere. And it’s in just one of these small hamlets that you’ll find The Kings Arms. Fleggburgh is so small that if you blink you’ll miss when driving through on your way to Great Yarmouth. But please keep your eyes open and make some time to visit this gem of a restaurant.

Or is it a pub? Mark Dixon, the current owner and chef, has a bit of an identity crisis on his hands, but that’s not down to him. As so often happens when declining pubs are taken over by talented and ambitious chefs, they come a cropper when the local residents put their cumulative ‘foot’ down and make it difficult to change things. This could be the case with the Kings Arms but Mark’s clear vision and ambition for the venue is not going to put him off his stride. Having taken over this traditional watering hole in 2013, he has set about changing its personality to become known as a fine-dining restaurant with rooms. Instead of letting Covid overwhelm his business, he got busy converting a old barn into a stunning bar area with hand-tiled walls and a handmade solid wood bar (and a big screen TV but let’s not talk about that too much), as well as renovating the rooms above the pub for those who fancy a boutique style night away from it all. There are also three chalet-style garden rooms which are cosy with large king-size beds and luxe interiors – and power showers that will most definitely wake you up in the morning! Being just a short walk from the restaurant, they make for a most convenient and comfortable stay, otherwise you’re going to have to get a taxi because there’s not a whole lot else around here.

The investment in the venue itself well worth every penny, because after you’ve eaten here of an evening, you won’t want to move.

A gastronome’s idyll

The dining areas are a good size with plenty of space between tables so that your conversation isn’t overheard by neighbouring diners. Not that we’re discussing anything controversial, but I do hate feeling like I have to make friends with people because I’m so close to them when I’m simply out dining with my other half! There are three sections to the restaurant – a bit of a change in recent times to encourage more people to dine rather than to use it as their local drinking establishment. You can still come just for a drink, but you’ll be encouraged to use the newly converted barn instead.

The open kitchen to the restaurant is small, and this is reflected in the well-proportioned a la carte and lunch menus (they offer a bar menu and tasting menu too). The handful of chefs working in the kitchen are a well-oiled machine – working deftly and silently to produce beautifully presented dishes. It’s quite mesmerising watching them work!

The food can only be described as locally-sourced English gastropub fare but it’s elevated beyond your standard battered fish and chips. On our most recent visit I opted to start with scallops with parsnip puree, apple and a gruyere cheese velouté. A pretty dish decorated with edible flowers and watercress for a touch of crunch and bite, the scallops were soft and balanced perfectly with the sweetness of the apple. Mrs HB had a risotto of pigeon breast, pancetta and confit duck egg. Full of depth and rich flavour, the portion size was probably just a little too big for a starter, but it was tasty nonetheless.

For the mains, Mrs HB tucked into the most enormous plate of Dingley Dell pork belly and fillet. Served with fondant potatoes, black pudding, tender stem broccoli, kohlrabi, apple sauce and butternut squash puree – all perfectly cooked – it was simply too much. I’m all for making sure people have enough to eat, and everything was delicious, but it could be more refined; reduce the amount of each item, put it on a smaller plate and the impact would be far greater.

I chose the chargrilled 10oz sirloin which came with grilled tomatoes, triple-cooked chips and watercress salad. I also added some garlic prawns just to try them. And the dish didn’t disappoint. The sirloin was pink and could have been cut through with a butter knife, the chips were fluffy and crunchy and the prawns – although I had to shell them (which just makes a mess) – were soft and garlicky. And there was plenty of peppercorn sauce which was just the right consistency for happily dunking chips. It was a hearty all-rounder that would satisfy most carnivore’s palate.

We wouldn’t normally order dessert after such a large meal. If we do have dessert it’s usually cheese and biccies for Mrs HB and something chocolatey for me. But the salted caramel and peanut butter parfait caught my attention and I couldn’t resist. Oh my, I urge you to try this (if you’re not allergic to nuts… and like banana)! Light and airy parfait that that is full of savoury peanutty goodness, a malted chocolate mousse that was equally light and airy, balanced with homemade, crispy and chewy honeycomb, chunks of refreshing banana and a rich, glossy salted caramel sauce. Heaven. Mark, this should be one of your signature dishes that you shout about! Even Mrs HB (self-professed dessert-hater that she is) tucked into this with me. Now there’s a seal of approval.

I should mention that there’s a sturdy wine list to choose from, from summery sauvignons to deep rich Malbecs, from renowned wineries and vineyards around the world. In fact, Mark works with a local wine expert who holds regular wine tastings at the Kings Arms so I would expect nothing less! There’s also an extensive selection of local ales and spirits… and some tasty cocktails if you’re feeling fancy.

I’ve been here several times in the past couple of years and the place has never disappointed. Whether you come for lunch or dinner, there’s a relaxing atmosphere combined with a professionalism from the staff that indicates a well-managed and trained venue. In fact, I would say that the Kings Arms continues to go from strength to strength, and I look forward to going back again in the near future and exploring what’s new on the menu.