On Safari in Norfolk? Visit the Wildebeest
The Wildebeest in Stoke Holy Cross is outstanding. But while you might already know the facts, you don’t have The Hospitality Boss perspective on the place, and that’s really all that matters isn’t it? Let’s discuss.
I’m loose as a goose (or maybe that should be antelope) when I arrive at the Wildebeest, a former pub reimagined into a restaurant in 2015, the brainchild of Chef Patron Daniel Smith (of BBC Great British Menu fame no-less), and owner of The Ingham Swan too. If you’re a visitor to Norfolk this summer you’ll not struggle to find a decent place to eat. But I would urge you to seek out the Wildebeest and try it out for a couple of hours (or more – they don’t rush you here).
It’s a mild late-summer evening when Mrs HB and I pull up in the car park of this somewhat backwater ‘pub’ in the village of Stoke Holy Cross, four miles from Norwich. Guests with dogs, welcomed here, are pottering on a concrete-slabbed patio next to the car park. Through the main entrance (in fact the only entrance) we go, straight into a traditional low-ceilinged room with dining tables on either side of us. A sizeable bar area welcomes us, along with friendly staff, waiting to take us to our table. I’m not sure how to describe the decor other than being rather ‘serious’ – solid wood, handmade tables are laid with white napery, good glasses, and a small sprig of fresh flowers (thank goodness they’re not fake!). There’s plenty of light coming through the many windows, and the thrum of chatting diners adds a comfortable ambience. It’s cosy, formal but informal, and I’m starting to like it here already.
Norfolk has developed quite the obsession with ‘local and sustainable’ food over the last few years. But if you have ever wondered whether locally sourced, sustainable food really tastes any better, all I can say is eat here. No one cares whether you’re dressed to the nines or in jeans and trainers, they’re concentrating on the food. The quality of the ingredients and the creativity in which they are presented is unparalleled, and as good as advertised. But it’s worth mentioning that there’s no dress code here – and that makes me feel more at home because I’m not a ‘stand-on-ceremony’ kind of guy.
Totally focused on good food and wine
If you’re looking for Instagrammable surroundings, this isn’t the place. But the food – well, every dish is styled for that perfect pic. Award-winning chef Fabio Miani heads up the kitchen here; you don’t need Daniel Smith cooking for you when there’s talent like this around.
I’ve been here a few times in the last year simply because it has never failed to impress me. The food, whether you’re sitting down to sample the seasonal 7-course tasting menu, to gorge on the a la carte menu, or getting together with family for a Sunday roast, is consistently tasty and well presented.
The first time I came here was with close friends who don’t really go in for fine dining. In fact, they get a bit baffled by some of the terminology and ingredients. But I persuaded them to come because I explained it’s all food they know and like, even if they’re not used to it being presented with small – but effortless – flourishes. And the tasting menu was the perfect choice for us. It should be noted that if you’re in a group, everyone either has to choose the taster menu or opt for a la carte – understandably, it’s hard to time the two menus together.
Every mouthful’s a joy, from the ‘snack’ – a heritage tomato salad with pesto, goats cheese snow and a black olive crumb to the fish course – hand-dived scallops with confit chicken wings and the sweet, sharp crunchiness of Granny Smith apple.
From a chargrilled fillet of beef with a scoop of pomme puree, crunchy tender stem broccoli and glazed onion, to a cold refreshing lime sorbet with strawberry & black pepper gin foam and freeze-dried raspberries. And I haven’t even mentioned the trio of Norfolk cheeses or the show-stopper pudding that didn’t leave us feeling like we’d eaten a mountain. We cheerfully admired and chatted about each dish while knocking back a little glass of something from the carefully selected wine flight to accompany each dish. “Just lovely,” says Mrs HB, polishing off pudding by – horror, swiping her finger round her plate.
If you’re not a coffee drinker, I’d still urge you to order coffee, simply for the handmade petit fours – delightful bites of sweet white chocolate with an oozing caramel centre. Yum. I think it might have been those that made us want to loosen our belts!
Sunday lunch is no less of a delight, if a little more traditional. And it’s a whoppingly good price too, at just £24 for two courses (trust me, don’t eat for a few days if you’re going for three courses!). There’s an exceptional choice of starters on offer, from an earthy warm Jerusalem artichoke salad with Binham Blue croquette, unctuous chicken liver and truffle parfait with Serrano ham crisp, or that day’s homemade soup, there’s something for every palate.
The main courses are HUGE. They are your traditional Sunday roast with fluffy, light Yorkshire pudding, plenty of delicious veg… and so much less effort than having to cook it at home. Choose from roast chicken, lamb, fillet of beef (which is perfectly pink), to fish and a vegetarian option too. They do cater for vegans, but please let the restaurant know in advance.
If you have room for pudding (there’s definitely something that WILL tickle your fancy), I can highly recommend the sticky toffee pudding which seems to be a favourite here, or the lighter fruit mousses and sorbets which cleanse the palate ready for the coffee and petit fours 😉.
If you’re looking for wines to match your dishes, The Wildebeest has taken the time to provide suggestions for each dish and publish them with their food menus. After all, you could spend hours poring the wine list, which is extensive but with a fine range from around the world. The staff are very knowledgeable too so if you’re stuck, ask them for they suggestions; they’re not just reading from a list!
I’d love to take you through every meal I’ve had at The Wildebeest because I can’t speak highly enough of the food they produce here, but the best thing you can do is come for a visit yourself. It really is ‘relaxed fine dining in Norfolk’ – and worth every penny.
The Hospitality Boss Rating
Overall rating (out of 5)
